New Puppy 101 - crate training, vaccinations, and raising your new puppy

Vaccination
Puppies require multiple vaccination boosters as they grow. During this time, the immunity they receive from their mothers is starting to decline and their own immunity is still "getting up to speed.” As a result, the first few months are a time when your puppy is particularly vulnerable to disease. We will discuss your puppy's vaccination plan with you to help ensure that he/she is fully protected. Most puppy vaccination plans include:

Canine Distemper Combination Vaccine
This vaccine helps protect against canine distemper virus, canine parvovirus, and infectious hepatitis. It is usually given in a series of three boosters.
Bordatella Vaccine
The "kennel cough" vaccine. This vaccine may help prevent signs of respiratory infection or make their symptoms or duration less severe. This vaccine is usually recommended if your puppy will be attending puppy kindergarten, visiting dog parks, or staying at boarding facilities. It is given in a series of two boosters.
Rabies Vaccine
This vaccine is required by law to be administered to all pets. Puppies receive their first vaccine at 4 months of age, at 1 year, and thereafter in accordance with county regulations (varies from yearly to every three years of age).

Other vaccines may be chosen for your puppy as deemed appropriate for his/her age and lifestyle.

Heartworm
Heartworm is a serious and potentially life-threatening disease that is transmitted by mosquitoes. Heartworm is on the rise in Colorado and Larimer County, and it is our recommendation that all dogs be given monthly heartworm preventive medication.

Puppies cannot be accurately tested for heartworm disease until they are at least six months old; however, we will administer heartworm preventive to your puppy at each monthly visit until he/she is old enough to be tested and sent home with a supply of size-appropriate preventive.

While the threat of mosquitoes is certainly lessened in the Colorado winter, we recommend year-round administration of heartworm preventive for several reasons:

We can know with confidence your puppy is fully protected against this devastating disease.
The medication provides year-round protection against intestinal parasites that can be potentially transmitted to you, your family, and other pets.
Year-round preventive allows for ease in administration without the headache of remembering, "Is this the month I have to give the pill?"
If your puppy receives his/her preventive every month of the year, we only need to test for heartworm every other year. Seasonal heartworm prevention still allows a window in which your dog may become infected and yearly testing is therefore required.

Intestinal Parasites
Almost all puppies are infected with intestinal parasites before they are born and while they are nursing. They can become re-infected as they explore the world around them and sniff or ingest their own feces or the feces of other animals. These parasites can cause vomiting, diarrhea, malnutrition and weight loss. They can be passed to humans and other animals. They can affect the digestive system as well as the eyes and nervous system.

At Friendship Hospital for Animals, we encourage routine fecal examinations for all pets to diagnose intestinal parasites. Even if your puppy's fecal examination is negative for parasites, we will deworm him/her at each puppy visit to ensure that he/she (as well as your family) is fully protected. To prevent re-infection, make sure that feces are cleaned up regularly and that all family members employ good hand-washing techniques.

Flea and Tick Control
Fleas and ticks can carry many diseases, and we are seeing a rise in their numbers in Colorado. Depending on your puppy's lifestyle, we may recommend a flea and tick preventative to protect him/her against these pesky creatures!

Ovariohysterectomy and Neuter Surgery
Your puppy can be spayed or neutered as young as 8 weeks of age. If you obtained your puppy through a humane society, he/she may have already had surgery prior to coming home with you. At Friendship Hospital for Animals, we generally recommend performing this surgery at 4-6 months of age-- after the initial series of vaccinations, but before your puppy has reached puberty.

Advantages of ovariohysterectomy and neutering include:

Reduced roaming behavior
Reduced mounting and dominance aggression in males
Female heat cycles are eliminated
Elimination of the risk of life-threatening infections or cancer of the uterus, ovaries, or testicles
Reduction in the risk of breast cancer in females and prostate disease in males
Your pet will not contribute to the pet overpopulation problem

Microchip Identification
The Home Again microchip identification system is a small electronic chip the size of a grain of rice that is permanently injected (similar to a vaccine) under the skin between the shoulder blades. All shelters and most veterinary clinics have scanners that are able to detect these microchips. Each microchip has a unique identification number that is registered with the Home Again database and is linked to your identification information, including phone numbers, address, and emergency contact.

Some important considerations about microchips:

Microchips are not "homing devices". The microchip carries an ID number only. You must make sure that the database has your current information to make sure you can be reached in the event your puppy becomes lost.
Microchips are not a substitute for collar and identification tags. If your puppy were to be found by a neighbor, it is not apparent that your puppy has a microchip. Collars with current identification tags in addition to a microchip give your puppy the best chance of returning home should he/she become lost.

We are happy to implant your puppy with a microchip at any time. No special anesthesia or equipment is needed, however it is often most convenient (and comfortable for your puppy) to implant the microchip at the time of the ovariohysterectomy or neuter surgery.

Prophylactic (preventative) Gastropexy
Gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV, also called "bloat") is a serious, painful, and potentially fatal condition in which the stomach twists on itself. This leads to distension of the stomach with food and air, and an inability to evacuate the stomach contents in either direction. This bloating cuts off blood supply to the stomach as well as other organs. Dogs with GDV can die rapidly due to shock, heart rhythm abnormalities, or cardiac failure.

Risk factors for GDV include size (>55 pounds at maturity), breed (Great Danes, Saint Bernards, and other deep-chested dogs are particularly at risk), meal feeding (fed one big meal rather than multiple small ones), and exercise immediately after eating.

Signs of GDV include restlessness, panting, drooling, abdominal distension, abdominal pain, and unproductive vomiting or retching. If you notice any of these signs, call us, or the Veterinary Emergency Hospital at 484-8080, IMMEDIATELY! Dogs with GDV require immediate emergency care and surgery to decompress and derotate the stomach.

The risk of GDV can be reduced by an elective procedure at the time of ovariohysterectomy or neuter surgery. The stomach is permanently sutured to the inside wall of the abdominal cavity in a procedure called a "gastropexy" to prevent it from rotating. Please talk to your veterinarian to help determine if a prophylactic gastropexy is the right option for your puppy.

Dental Care
The number one reason pets are anesthetized in the United States is for a dental procedure. You can help avoid this potentially costly procedure with just minutes a day of home dental care. Dedication to home dental care will ensure that your puppy's teeth stay healthy and gleaming white into his/her golden years!

Toothbrushing
This is the number one way to help keep your puppy's teeth and gums healthy. Plaque starts building up immediately after a meal and turns to hard, calcified tartar within 48 hours. This tartar creates an infection that weakens the gums, teeth, and jawbone. If it is allowed to progress, it can spread disease to the heart, liver, and kidneys. By brushing your puppy's teeth daily, you can prevent the buildup of plaque and tartar and the progression of dental disease.

We can send you home with a tooth care kit that includes canine toothpaste, a finger brush, and a full-size toothbrush. Regular human toothpaste should not be used since puppies don't know how to "spit" and it can cause stomach upset.

To start your puppy on a toothbrushing routine, begin by allowing them to taste the toothpaste. Most puppies enjoy it, as it is chicken or beef flavored! Place a small amount on your finger and massage it onto yout puppy's teeth and gums. Once he/she seems comfortable, begin using the finger brush. As your puppy grows, you can start to use the full-sized toothbrush. Make sure that the experience is a positive one for your puppy. He/she should receive a lot of praise and treats before, during, and afterwards.
C.E.T. Chews
These toothpaste-impregnated rawhide chews can be given as a supplement to toothbrushing. They should be only given under close supervision to prevent choking or swallowing of large pieces.
Greenies
These are dental bones to be used as a treat. They help to mechanically remove plaque and can be used as a supplement to brushing. They should also be used under supervision.
Oxy-Fresh rinse
This enzymatic rinse helps to inhibit bacteria that aids in plaque formation. It can be added to your puppy's drinking water (1 capful per quart of water) and is safe for use in dogs as well as cats. The water should be changed at least every other day to ensure the enzyme remains active.
Science Diet t/d (tartar diet)
This is a specially formulated prescription diet whose large kibble size and fiber structure allows it to act as an "edible toothbrush." While it should not be used as a sole diet until puppies are at least a year of age, it can be utilized as treats (as in our exam rooms!) for growing puppies.

Your puppy has 28 baby teeth, which will be replaced with 42 adult teeth by 6-7 months of age. You may not find his/her baby teeth when they are lost as they are often swallowed. Some puppies, particularly small breed puppies, may retain their baby teeth even after their adult teeth grow in. These teeth should be surgically removed to prevent crowding in the mouth as well as dental disease or broken teeth.

"Tooth safe" toys: Some hard puppy toys can lead to painful and expensive tooth fractures. Avoid giving your puppy hard plastic toys or bones to chew on.

Nutrition
A high quality puppy food is one of the keys to good health as your puppy grows. Puppies have special caloric, vitamin, and mineral requirements that should be addressed with a food made just for them. We recommend feeding a puppy diet from the Science Diet, Eukanuba, or Iams line. Puppies who are going to be greater than 55 pounds at maturity should be fed a "Large Breed" version of the puppy diet. This special formulation optimizes your puppy's growth rate and helps prevent joint problems later in life. Puppy food should be fed for at least the first year of life. At that time, a high quality adult food can be gradually introduced.

Allow at least 7-10 days to transition your puppy from one food to the other to avoid stomach upset.

Ear Care
Just like humans, dogs are prone to building up wax in their ears, which can lead to an overgrowth of bacteria or yeast and an uncomfortable ear infection. A little "preventative maintenance", particularly in the case of floppy eared dogs, can go a long way in preventing ear infections from getting out of control. We recommend that you start getting your puppy used to having his/her ears handled from a young age. Cleanings can be done on a weekly basis and after swimming or baths.

To clean your puppy's ears, soak a cotton ball in ear cleaner. It should be dripping wet! Place it into the ear and massage the base of the ear around the cotton ball until the cleaner can be heard "squishing" in the ear. Then, step back and let your puppy shake! Finally, wipe out excess debris and liquid with a dry cotton ball. Do not use Q-tips or cotton swabs in the ear as they may actually push debris further into the ear and damage the eardrum. Do not use tissue to clean the ears, as it can be abrasive to the delicate skin of the ear.

Nail Care
Now is the time to start getting your puppy used to having his/her nails trimmed! A puppy's paws are very sensitive to touch. Getting him/her comfortable with having his/her paws handled early is important. Begin by massaging your puppy's feet and toes while reinforcing him/her with a lot of treats and praise. Gradually start trimming the nails one paw at a time. Go slow and reward your puppy for his/her bravery! You may need to keep a "nail trim journal" to remember which nails you have trimmed until your puppy is used to having nails on all four feet trimmed.

As the nail grows and is not trimmed, the "quick" (blood vessel and nerve) will grow down the length of the nail making it difficult to trim without pain and bleeding; therefore, regular trimming is essential!

To trim your puppy's nails, gently hold the toe in your hand and trim off the hooked point of the nail. The rear nails usually need less trimmed off than the front nails. Don't forget the dewclaw ("thumb nail"), which never contacts the ground to be worn off. Use a nail trimmer designed especially for dogs, as human nail trimmers can crush the nail prior to cutting it.

Grooming
Your puppy's grooming needs will depend on breed and type of hair. Some breeds, such as terriers, have hair that grows continuously and must be groomed on a regular basis. Other breeds like Huskies have a luxurious undercoat that requires regular brushing to remove dead hair. Puppies generally do not require baths any more often than once monthly. More frequent bathing may lead to dry or itchy skin. Make sure that you buy a gentle puppy shampoo, as human shampoo is not properly pH balanced for his/her delicate skin. As with all home care, make baths a positive experience for your puppy with a lot of treats and praise!

Exercise
Tired puppies are well-behaved puppies, but make sure your puppy doesn't overdo it as his/her little body grows. Walks and romps in the backyard are great. Don't go on long, strenuous hikes or runs with your puppy until his/her bones are through growing; a year of age is best. This is particularly true for large breed puppies.

Emergencies: When to Worry, What to Do
We wish a long and healthy life for your new puppy but know that concerns can arise at any hour of the day or night. If you have any concerns about your puppy's health, don't hesitate to call us at any time. After hours, please call the wonderful doctors at Veterinary Emergency Hospital at (970) 484-8080. Some things that require immediate emergency attention include:

Seizure, fainting, or collapse
Eye injury, redness, or pain, no matter how mild
Vomiting or diarrhea, blood in the stool or vomit, vomiting foreign material, unproductive attempts to vomit
Allergic reactions including swelling of the face, weakness, difficulty breathing or hives
Suspected poisoning or swallowing of foreign objects (antifreeze, rodent/snail bait, human medication, clothing/toys, etc)
Snake or spider bite
Heat or cold stress- even if your dog seems to have recovered (the internal story could be quite different)
Any open and/or bleeding laceration or wound, especially animal bites
Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if your dog seems fine (again, the situation could be quite different on the inside)
Any respiratory problem: coughing, trouble breathing, or near drowning
Straining to urinate or defecate
Any change in routine or behavior that you feel is concerning... if it's an emergency to you, it's an emergency to us!

Socialization
The first few months of life are CRUCIAL in forming a puppy's personality. It is during this time that he/she learns how to interact with adults, children, other dogs, cats, and the environment around him/her. During their formative months, puppies will approach a new stimulus with curiosity. If they have a positive experience associated with it, they will respond with acceptance. Later in life, if presented with a stimulus for the first time, they may respond with fear or even aggression.

Therefore, socialization is key for your puppy's emotional and behavioral well-being! Exposing him/her to as many aspects of his/her "new world" is vitally important during the first few months of life. Make sure the experiences with those aspects are positive. Read below for more information on showing your puppy the world!

All-Over Puppy Massage
Now is the time to get your puppy used to being handled, petted and examined. You are the first line of defense should your puppy ever become injured or ill. A puppy that is used to having his/her body handled will make it easier to detect and address problems before they get out of hand! In addition, early handling will get your puppy used to preventative health care tasks such as nail trimming, grooming, or teeth brushing. All members of your household, especially children, should massage and handle your puppy every day. Plan the massage for a time when he/she is sleepy (after playing is best rather than just after waking). Make sure there are plenty of treats on hand.

Massage all areas of your puppy's body. Look in the ears, lift up the lips, and massage the gums (getting ready for teeth brushing later!). Open the mouth as if you were going to give a pill. You may even consider giving a small "pill" of canned food or some other treat. Massage each paw and its individual nails. Place the puppy on his/her back and rub the tummy. Lift the tail. Every square inch of your puppy should be petted, massaged, and examined as often as possible during these first few months so that he/she will learn to love and trust human contact.

Puppy Kindergarten
Puppy kindergarten is an invaluable experience for any family with a new puppy, whether it's your first puppy or your tenth! Puppy kindergarten provides safe, supervised socialization with other puppies of all sizes and temperaments as well as their human families. Each week new training tips are provided, obedience commands are introduced and practiced, and behavior concerns are addressed.

Puppy kindergarten is so much more than just "sit and stay". It will help you to learn to communicate with your puppy so that any behavioral concerns (nipping, chewing, jumping up, digging, etc) that arise later in life can be addressed in the right way. It provides a positive bonding experience for you and your family with your new puppy while helping him/her learn to be a "good citizen.” In addition, it's incredibly fun!

With so many puppy kindergartens in Northern Colorado, how do you choose the right one? We are happy to give you the names of our favorites-- just ask! If you are evaluating a different class, consider these questions:

Does the instructor have specialized education in dog behavior and training? How many years of experience do they have? Will they allow you to sit in on a class before registering?
What is the philosophy of the course? Is it positive reinforcement with treats and praise, or dominance-based, aggressive leash work with choke chains, pinch collars, or physical punishment?
Are developmental and behavioral concerns addressed as part of the course curriculum or is it solely obedience-based?
How many puppies are allowed in each class? Make sure the instructor isn't taking on more pups than they can adequately supervise.
What vaccination requirements does the course have?
How long does the course last? Does the organization offer follow-up obedience courses for older puppies?

If you are considering starting puppy kindergarten for your puppy let us, know so we can make sure that he/she is adequately vaccinated before starting class.

Outside Socialization: Dog Parks, etc.
Off-leash dog parks and treks to outside venues such as town squares or pet stores can be great socialization experiences for puppies-- if they're approached in the right way.

The dog park can be great fun for a new puppy-- or it can be a terrifying experience! Some puppies relish the thought of bounding around a park wrestling with all of their full-size buddies. Others are afraid of the overwhelming number of dogs off-leash and may run the risk of being bullied, getting injured in a tumble, or getting into a fight. Dog parks should be avoided at least until your puppy has completed his/her full set of vaccinations. Interactions with other pets prior to this can be limited to friendly, vaccinated pets who are known to you, or alternately, your puppy's buddies from kindergarten. Interactions with outside pets should start on leash in a neutral location and be watched closely for any signs of tension (stiff body postures, raised hair, growling, etc).

To help accustom your puppy to the world around him/her, arm yourself with a leash and plenty of treats. Start with short, low-stress interactions with people in public. Ask strangers to get down to your puppy's level and offer him/her a treat. Praise your puppy for allowing the interaction. Do not punish fearful behavior; rather, redirect it with a high happy voice and treats. Go slow and let your puppy tell you his/her comfort level. As your puppy gains comfort in public, challenge yourself to give him/her positive interactions with as many different types of people and situations as you can: men and women, people in hats, people with wheelchairs, canes or walkers, men with facial hair, children, strollers, trains, cars, and other loud noises. The more positive experiences your puppy can have with the world around them, the more well-rounded and friendly they are going to be in the long run!

The Car
Some puppies love the car! There are few things more blissful than a puppy riding down the road with his/her head and tongue hanging out the window. However, the car can be a frightening and stressful experience for some puppies. Here are some tips for helping your puppy adjust to road travel.

As with everything, start slow and keep things positive! Consider having your puppy's first trips in the car be in a crate (see below for crate training tips). Start with allowing your puppy to smell and explore the car. Provide lots of praise and treats. Then, turn the car on with the puppy in the car. Gradually you can progress to short trips around the block, trips for short errands like the drive-through and finally, trips to the veterinarian! Stop by and say "hello". Our Client Care Providers would be happy to give your puppy a treat and some love before you head home!

NEVER leave your puppy unattended in the car. Even on a cloudy day, the temperature in a parked car can rise to lethal levels in a short period of time and overwhelm your puppy's ability to cool him/herself. PLEASE never allow your dog to ride in the open bed of a truck. Don't let a road trip end with the heartbreak of an injured pet-- or worse.

Leash Training
Most puppies take to a leash very well, as they learn quickly that it leads to fun places! Make sure you have a collar and tags on your puppy from the first day. You can start the leash work by attaching a light leash to the collar and following him/her throughout the house with it dragging behind him/her. Supervise him/her so that mishaps do not occur. Give him/her praise and treats while the leash is attached. After a while, you can follow behind your puppy and pick up the leash. Finally, encourage your puppy to follow you by calling him/her with a high happy voice and a lot of treats. Don't pull on your puppy's leash if he/she will not follow you as this will only lead to more resistance.

A consideration for pushy puppies on leash is the Gentle Leader halter. Ask us for information on this great new technique for leash training your puppy.

Housemates
New puppies can be a wonderful addition-- or an unwelcome houseguest-- to a home with other pets. It's important to introduce your pets to their new housemate in the proper way to avoid any fighting or long-term behavior problems. Introductions should be VERY gradual. Any episodes of fear or aggression require a step back to the previous comfort level. Dogs must be allowed to figure out their social "pack" structure; however, if allowed to continue, some conflict and aggression can become a long-term habit. Some pets are more social than others, so it is important to approach any introduction with a realistic and patient frame of mind.

First, make sure that your existing pets are fully vaccinated and healthy before adding a new puppy. Your puppy should be confined to a small PUPPYPROOF (see below) room for several days at first with his/her own food, bed, and toys. Allow the resident pets to smell the new addition under the door. Rub a towel on each pet and place it under the other pet's food bowls or near a favorite toy so that they can associate good things with the other's scent. You can also try switching sleeping blankets between pets.

Next, switch the pets. Your new puppy can explore the house and smells of your other pets without having fear-inducing interactions. Allow your other pets to explore the puppy's room (confined) during this time. Finally, you can start to have some controlled interactions between your pets. Baby gates dividing the puppy's room from the rest of the house can allow visual interaction between your pets while creating a physical barrier. Plan your puppy's first "face to face" interaction with their new doggy siblings in a neutral location, such as a park, with each dog on leash. Make the experience positive by using a lot of treats and praise.

As your pets get to know each other, make sure that they are not left unsupervised for the first few months that they live together and you are sure how they will interact. Ensure that each pet has his/her own space to which he/she can retreat if he/she feels threatened.

Canine Rivalry
When dealing with dogs who are working out their pack hierarchy, resist the urge to make your dogs "fight fair". In a pack, the top dogs always get first pick of toys, food, attention, and resting areas. By taking away toys or treats from a "bully" dog (even if it's the new puppy) and giving them to an "underdog", you can confuse them. Start to recognize "high stakes" toys and treats and consider either separating your pets when these items are around or removing them altogether. Help to ensure the success of your pack dynamics!

When experiencing conflict, do not punish your pets' aggressive or fearful behavior; it may cause it to escalate. Try distracting fighting pets with a squirt bottle or loud noise and then separating them and starting over. NEVER try to physically separate fighting pets!

Puppy-Proofing Your Home
There's nobody that can explore every nook and cranny of your home like a new puppy! To ensure that your puppy will be safe in your home, visit the childproofing section of your hardware store. Some important considerations include:

Cover electrical outlets, remove doorstopper tips
Cover electrical cords with PCV piping to prevent chewing and electrocution
Tie up blind cords and other loose, dangling items
Remove houseplants that may encourage digging or chewing
Remove tablecloths that can be pulled off, dragging their contents behind them
Elevate or eliminate cleaning products, medicines (especially aspirin, Tylenol and other pain relievers), and household products such as antifreeze or rat poison
Remove string (including string toys, yarn, and loose fibers of rugs, blankets and carpet) that can be ingested and create an intestinal blockage
A young puppy exploring his/her world doesn't know what's yours and what's his/hers. If it's in his/her reach, it's fair game! Help your puppy succeed by keeping "off-limits" items out of his/her reach and providing him/her with plenty of acceptable alternatives.

Learning and Behavior Considerations for Puppies
Puppies are constantly learning from the moment they are born. At any given moment, there are a thousand things he/she can do wrong and one he/she can do right. Rather than making your puppy guess or continually punishing him/her for wrong behavior, show him/her and reinforce him/her for the right behavior. See below for more specific tips.

The most important rule of raising any puppy is that "YOU CAN'T PUNISH WHAT YOU DON'T SEE HAPPEN.” Puppies have very little short-term associative memory. They don't remember that they were the ones who made the mess on the floor and as a result, made you angry. All they learn is that when there is a mess on the floor to stay away from you! They don't decrease the unwanted behavior; they just learn to do it when you're not watching. In addition, they may learn to resent or fear you in the process. Likewise, physically punishing your puppy by spanking them, flicking their noses, making them bite their gums (when nipping), or "rubbing their nose" in their wrongdoings will only lead to fearful and possibly aggressive behavior.

If don't see your puppy commit the behavior, you can't correct it. If you observe an inappropriate act, remember: DISTRACT, REDIRECT, and PRAISE! Distract by making a loud noise (coins in an empty soda can or a loud hand clap). It's best if the noise doesn't appear to come directly from you; the soda can is the most effective for this reason. When you have your puppy's attention, come to the rescue and redirect him/her to the appropriate behavior! If he/she is digging, take him/her to his/her digging spot or distract him/her with another toy. If he/she is inappropriately eliminating, take him/her to the designated bathroom location outside. If he/she is chewing or nipping, give him/her something appropriate to chew on. Once he/she learns to perform the appropriate activity, praise him/her for being a wonderful and smart puppy! Each time you reinforce the correct behavior you erase the "appeal" of the incorrect one.

The most important thing to remember is to be patient! Remember that raising a puppy is like raising a toddler. You will have good and bad days, lessons that stick and issues that persist. With patience, realistic expectations and consistent and positive messages, you will have a well-behaved member of your family in no time.

Playtime
There are a wide variety of toys available for puppies at local pet stores. Choose toys that don't have pieces or parts that can be chewed off and ingested. String toys should be used carefully and only under supervision to prevent ingestion and intestinal blockage. See the note above about "dental safe" toys.

Toys like Kongs and Buster Cubes are among our favorites for keeping puppies' mouths and minds busy. Kong toys are virtually indestructible rubber toys that can be stuffed with all manner of goodies (peanut butter, kibble, dental treats, canned food, spray cheese, etc) and frozen to give your pup hours of entertainment while you're away. Buster Cubes can be filled with kibble and as your puppy rolls them around the floor, they spill kibble out intermittently. It's a great way to make your puppy "work" for his/her meal, keep his/her mind and body occupied, and help him/her eat slower to improve digestion.

A good way to avoid a bored puppy is to have a toy box where a perpetually rotating stock of "new" toys can arrive every few days. If you have all of your puppy's toys out at once you may notice that he/she becomes desensitized to them and searches for entertainment elsewhere. Consider also having a special "crate toy" like a Kong that he/she gets ONLY when he/she is in the crate to help him/her pass the time and forget that he/she is alone. See below for more information on crate training.

Remember that consistent messages are the key when it comes to toys, so make sure that your puppy is not allowed to play with regular household items like shoes, towels, or stuffed animals unless you're willing to give up their newer counterparts as well! The average puppy will make no distinction between Keds tennies and Prada heels!

Crate Training
Dogs are naturally den animals. Wolf puppies remain safe in their den during the day while their parents are out hunting. This same philosophy can be applied to your puppy. Contrary to what some say, crate training is not cruel confinement. It's a safe haven where your puppy can "go to work" while you do the same. You can know that your puppy is not endangering him/herself or your home and possessions while you are away. Crate training is important to approach in the right way to ensure that your puppy is getting the right message. We will be happy to talk with you about crate training specifics, but here are some highlights:

The crate should ALWAYS be a happy place! Never punish your puppy by placing him/her in the crate. Make it a positive place by using special treats and toys that he/she only receive in the crate.
The crate should be big enough for your puppy to stand up and turn around in comfortably. However, to help you with housetraining, it shouldn't be much bigger. Puppies do not like to sleep near their own waste. This makes crate training effective in teaching "bathroom manners". If the crate is too big, your puppy will eliminate in one corner and sleep in the other!
The crate should be introduced GRADUALLY and in a positive manner. Start by letting your puppy explore the crate with the door open. Place his/her meals in it and praise him/her for entering the crate to eat. After a while, you can close the door; then immediately open it, and give treats and praise. Gradually increase the amount of time your puppy spends in the crate and begin leaving the room.
If your puppy whines or barks in the crate resist the urge to "rescue" or scold him/her. Your puppy will quickly learn that barking in the crate gives immediate attention (bad attention is still attention)! If you approach crate training gradually, your puppy should not get to the point that he/she begins crying. If he/she cries, try to wait until he/she is quiet (even if only for a second) to let him/her out and try again.
Your puppy will need to go outside to eliminate throughout the day. Consider having family members or neighbors visit throughout the day to let your puppy out to run off some energy. Your puppy will be full of energy when you return for the day. Keeping his/her body tired with exercise and training will help him/her be more restful and well behaved while in the crate.

Housetraining
As with everything else, consistency is crucial in successfully housetraining a puppy. Here are some key points:

Establish a "bathroom spot" in your yard. Take your puppy to this same spot on leash every time he/she goes outside. Ignore any requests for play until he/she eliminates. Give a lot of praise and treats immediately after he/she has eliminated. Do not wait to give praise until he/she comes inside, or your pup may think he/she is being praised for coming inside-- and forget all about doing his/her business outside!
A puppy can hold his/her bowels and bladder for a MAXIMUM of one hour per month of life, plus one. For example, an eight-week-old puppy can be expected to "hold it" for three hours. He/she will often need to go more frequently, especially right after waking, eating, drinking, and playing. He/she may also need to go again 20-30 minutes after meals or big drinks.
If you decrease the amount of "acreage" your puppy has to roam, you increase the likelihood of catching his/her pre-bathroom behaviors such as purposeful sniffing or posturing. Once this behavior is realized, you will be able to take him/her outside in time. Use a crate, a gated-off puppy-proof area like a kitchen or laundry room, or tether your puppy to your belt loop with his/her leash.
If you find your puppy having accidents in the house, clean the areas with an enzymatic cleaner (we like Nature's Miracle). You can use a black light to help find hidden spots you may have missed.
If you catch your puppy eliminating in an inappropriate location, don't yell or punish him/her! This may make him/her fearful of you or the act of elimination and lead him/her to seek even more hidden locations for his/her waste. Pick him/her up and take him/her outside to his/her designated bathroom location.

Nippy Puppies
In the first few months of life, puppies learn something called bite inhibition. If you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will see rough and tumble play that often involves seemingly vicious biting-- until someone gets hurt. As soon as someone yips out in pain, everyone takes a step back and learns, "I shouldn't bite so hard next time!"

You will use this same philosophy to address nipping in your puppy. You will then take it a step further by teaching him/her that ANY skin/tooth contact is not OK with human beings. Any time your puppy's teeth touch your skin, respond by letting out a high-pitched yip, as if you were a grievously wounded littermate. Your puppy will likely let go and react with surprise. At the moment you have his/her attention, offer PRAISE for being a good puppy. Immediately give him/her an appropriate toy or treat to chew on instead.

If the nipping is consistently noted with play, help your puppy understand that play will stop immediately if nipping continues. If he/she loses your attention when nipping, he/she will think twice about it in the future.

An important addition to this strategy is that puppies must have consistent messages when it comes to nipping. Hands, feet, and other body parts (even if covered by gloves, socks, or blankets) are NEVER allowed to be toys. It's too confusing for your puppy to understand that your hands are OK to wrestle with, but your two-year-old child's are not! Also, do not physically punish the mouthiness, as it may only lead to fear and an increase in the behavior.

We at Friendship Hospital for Animals are excited and privileged to be entrusted with the veterinary care of your special new family member. We know that emotional and behavioral well-being is just as important in a strong human-animal bond is physical health. If you have any concerns or questions about your puppy's health or behavior, please don't hesitate to contact us. We're here for you!

Friendship Hospital for Animals
1103 Oak Park Dr. Suite 103
Fort Collins, CO 80525
(970) 206-1868
www.friendshiphospitalforanimals.com